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Author:  crich [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 12:22 pm ]
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Ok, I didn't discover the cure to cancer but thought other newbie's (like myself) might use something I came up with to help align the fingerboard. I was wondering how to place the fretboard for glueing so that the frets would be at the correct distance from the nut. I cut a scrap piece 3/16" and placed it where the nut would go then placed my ruler to check the distace to the frets. I cut my fingerboard a scosh long and filed down until I was happy with the measurement. Then when glueing I butted the fingerboard up against the spacer and pressed the fingerboard down on to a couple of sharpened nails. After clamping I remove the spacer to clean up any glue that may of crept into the nut slot. Clinton
Author:  John Elshaw [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 12:34 pm ]
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Hi Clinton,

What do you mean when you press the fingerboard down on sharpened nails? I'm not sure what you're talking about here.

Here is the process I use:

Align your fingerboard so it's perfect, then clamp it in place. Use a #55 drill bit and drill two holes 1 1/4" apart at the 11th and 1st fret slots. The holes should extend into the neck wood by about 1/4".   

Once you have the holes drilled, a large paper clip is the perfect size for this hole to pin the neck in place. Once everything is aligned, remove the fingerboard, add glue, then pin back in place. Add your clamps and you are all set. When everything is dry, remove the pins and you're done. I've only built classical guitars but I assume the process should work for SS as well.

Cheers!

John
Author:  Joe Beaver [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 1:09 pm ]
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Clinton,

Sounds like you have found a workable solution to what can be a problem. Keep up the good work...
Author:  Serge Poirier [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 4:17 pm ]
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Clinton,
I think i saw that trick on Kathy Matsushita's site, am i off track here ?

SergeSerge Poirier38834.0540740741
Author:  Steve Kinnaird [ Thu Apr 27, 2006 12:03 am ]
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Hi Clinton, I use the process John Elshaw describes, with these two differences: four holes are drilled, using a 1/16" bit. The clamping caul allows the bits to pass through. The 1/16" hole is wider than the fret slot, but narrow enough to be covered by the fret itself.







If drill bits are used for pins, coat them really well with wax or soap, so that when the clamps go on, you can remove those pins.

Steve
Author:  Dave Rector [ Thu Apr 27, 2006 12:09 am ]
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Wouldn't 2 pins, set on a diagonal, be more than enough to keep things from slipping? I've just been using the Frank Finocchio staple gun technique and haven't had any slip on me yet.
Author:  Bruce Dickey [ Thu Apr 27, 2006 12:34 am ]
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I do something similar to Elshaw. Examining my Taylor guitars, I noticed that the side dots on the fretboard were not mother of pearl, but aluminum rod.

That caused me to stop at my local welding supply and pick up a tube of 1/16th inch aluminum welding rods which are about 24 inches long each. I have a lifetime supply for twelve bucks.

The brushed aluminum looks good and reflects well under finish for side dots.

Then... one day... I was needing to secure a fretboard to the neck blank and had just finished side dots on the board. I put the fretboard in position and drilled through the fret slots at each end of the board.

By inserting an aluminum pin, it made gluing a snap with no concern of movement. Later I tap the pins level with the bottom of the fretslot, leaving them in permanently. The width of the fretwire covers the 1/16th inch hole easily. Very accurate and easy.
Author:  Bruce Dickey [ Thu Apr 27, 2006 12:56 am ]
Post subject: 
That's funny, three almost simultaneous posts.

Steve, that's how you solved your problem, aha. That looks like a guitar on accupuncture treatment!

I glue mine face down into a radiused caul, hence the need to have no pins protruding. I really like the Martin roll pins they send out on their kits, but haven't determined how to do that accurately, so I can up with the aluminum dowel pins through the slot method.

It's cool to see how creative everyone is.... and all at the same time...
Author:  Wayne Clark [ Thu Apr 27, 2006 2:33 am ]
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Terry,

Thanks for the pictures! I just might have to steal that process.
Author:  LanceK [ Thu Apr 27, 2006 2:51 am ]
Post subject: 
One thing to consider when (leaving) metal objects under the fretboard, some day that board may need to be removed and trying to cut through a nail it a bit tough, staples are easer but will still damage the edge of your knife, or which ever tool your using to pry the fretboard off.
I do it much the same way Terry does, using wooden dowels and a aligning jig, the dowels can be sliced through pretty easily when removing the FB.
All of these methods are good IMO, just wanted to through this out form something to think about.
Author:  Serge Poirier [ Thu Apr 27, 2006 3:05 am ]
Post subject: 
Thank you very much Terry for these great explanations and pics, it's sure gonna be helpful like all your posts generally do!

Thanks also Lance for the thought, i used nails on my first neck-fretboard alignment but wood dowells make more sense yeah!

Serge
Author:  old man [ Thu Apr 27, 2006 4:20 am ]
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I use three of the radiused sanding blocks from StewMac. Two short ones and one long one. I use two alignment pins on fret slots near the end of the FB then clamp in the center with the longer caul. Once that is clamped firmly, I remove the pins and clamp each end with the shorter cauls.

Ron
Author:  TonyKarol [ Thu Apr 27, 2006 7:09 am ]
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I use four 1/16 inch drill bits, into two of the fret slots, one high one low. After the FB dries, I simply apply a little heat from a soldering gun and then they pull right out.
Author:  Billy T [ Thu Apr 27, 2006 4:57 pm ]
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I think Dudenbostel used that on DIY, if I remember right.

It's the Voodoo doll method! Works well on old girl friends, too
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